Sunday, March 31, 2019

Goodbye Western Australia!


My three weeks of home stays in Western Australia has come to an end. I bid farewell to Sara’s family, and to Perth, two hours ago. Sara and her friend, Faye, the secretary of the Badgingarra CWA of WA branch, are on our way to the next part of our adventure, Melbourne and Ballarat. The view out my window is of the Great Australian Bight and the coves and inlets of the coastline. Spectacular!

We are flying over Esperance at the moment. Hello Belinda, (the other) Deon, and everyone else I met there!

A few days ago (it has been hard to keep track of days and locations when moving around so much), my final hosts, Carol and Don, delivered me to Sara. I spent Saturday morning repacking my suitcase, trying to get in every brochure I’d picked up, every book I’d bought or been given, and every gift and souvenir I’d picked up along the way. Success! I was even under the weight limit for flying within Australia. This means, I have room for more souvenirs!

Saturday afternoon, Sara and I went to an equestrian event in the Swan Valley near Perth. This is a wine region, so the roads were lined with vineyard after vineyard. We met Sara’s granddaughter, Brooke, who is in boarding school in Perth and her mother, Gina, under the shade of river gums trees. Brooke’s horse, Cat, was saddled and ready for the first event, dressage. Since I was a novice equestrian event attendee, everything had to be explained to me. Brooke and Cat had to perform a predesignated set of maneuvers, such as cantering at a certain speed or trotting in a certain pattern. Each rider was dressed in white pants and a close-fitting navy-blue jacket, with a sturdy helmet on their head. Although we’d found a shady spot, the hot Australian sun beat down on the competitors. Each rider kept their cool, however. The hours of practice paid off as each well-groomed horse followed the subtle directions from the riders. An hour later, we found that Brooke had come in third, a good result.

Between events, the horses rested in little pens in the shade. Each was rewarded with a little hay and a good long drink of cool water. The next event was the jumping event, but we had a two-hour wait. How should we fill it? We walked the next day’s cross-country course with Brooke. The paddock was filled with many, many jumps, most of which looked impossible for a horse to jump over, but each had a code to designate the level of rider permitted to go over it. If I understood correctly, the course would be about two kilometers long and would take about four minutes to complete. It was very interesting as I’d only seen this type of event on TV.

Soon, Brooke and Cat were dressed and ready to try the jumping event. About 20 horses milled about in and out of the arena. One by one, they entered the practice area, and then started their individual jumping event. Our hearts about stopped when one horse stumbled over the gate and the rider went head over heels, landing on the ground as the horse’s hooves passed overhead. She quickly got up, much to the relief of the whole audience. For the rider’s safety, she is not allowed to continue to compete for the rest of the meet.

Brooke’s round in the jumping event seemed to go very well, but we did not hear her score before we had to leave. Sara and I helped her carry and put away the equipment. We wished her good luck in the next day’s event and bid her farewell.

I have had a wide variety of food on this trip. I was particularly keen on trying as many types of lamb as possible. So far, I’ve had roast lamb, lamb burgers, lamb chops and lamb souvlaki.  I remember American lamb as having a funny taste, which is not present here, which is probably one of the reasons Americans eat so little lamb. Rumor has it that during WWII, mutton (old sheep) was canned and fed to the US servicemen. Bleh! That sounds awful. No wonder we were turned off to eating sheep!

Mostly, I’ve gotten home cooked meals. One thing I noticed is that meals often consist of a meat, a potato, and several vegetables. Having six items on my plate always looked daunting but, geez, I always managed to eat it all! Often, “pumpkin” was served but was some variety of what we would call “squash.” I had to explain often how we have canned pumpkin that we use for pies, cakes, cookies, etc., and that it was a special type of pumpkin.

While in Perth, we’ve eaten at a lot of restaurants. Sara and I ate at a nearly-empty Thai restaurant the other night and had a delicious meal of red curried seafood. We rhapsodized so much about it that when Faye and Mike arrived, we decided to go back to the same restaurant. This time the place was filled to capacity. I guess everyone else had heard about our delicious meal. There was a nearby Indian restaurant that was nearly empty, so we went there. I seldom have the chance to eat Indian food and have no idea what to order. Sara made a few suggestions and we were on our way. Although we asked for mild dishes, their idea of “mild” was different than ours! We managed to get through the spicy fare with generous dollops of yogurt and a lot of the neutral bread. A little ice cream afterwards cooled our burning mouths.

Although I only saw about a sixth of Western Australia, I feel I got to experience a wide variety of activities and got to see varied topographies. There is a contrast between the dense green areas of trees in the south and the sandy bush in the Geraldton and Kalgoorlie areas. True Outback is further inland, but I did get a taste of it. It must have taken hardy souls to endure the hardships during the late 1800s goldrush and to settle the land in the early days.

Many of the early settlers were the convicts from England. Men and, I think, a few women were sent here with crimes as petty as stealing a loaf of bread. Suspiciously, many skilled tradesmen were among those convicted. Many, after they were released, made the most of it. For a long time, descendants of these early convicts were ashamed of the association, but now, it is a source of pride if one’s ancestor was one of the convicts who settled the land.

Update: Sara’s granddaughter got 2nd place overall! That is a GREAT result! Congrats Brooke!


Thursday, March 28, 2019

Looking Back

The first phase of my trip is coming to an end. Since I am up early...again!...I find myself reflecting on the past three weeks...

The first thought is that is has been such a whirlwind--going from place to place, meeting so many individuals and being hosted by so many CWA of WA groups--that I feel very guilty that I've not had time to mention all of the groups or wonderful people I have met. Sometimes I had a very profound experience, and then was whisked off to the next one before I could even jot down the memory. I was instant friends with many people and will probably correspond with some of them for the rest of my life. The CWA branches were so lovely and generous to me...and fed me well.  I am certainly not complaining about the whirlwind--there was no other way to do it--but I don't want anyone or any group I met to feel they weren't important to me just because I didn't mention them here!

I am so indebted to the Illinois Association of Home and Community Education (IAHCE) and to the Country Women's Association of Western Australia for sponsoring this exchange. They are sister groups under the umbrella (or "brolly") of the international group the Associated Country Women of the World (ACWW). As I've met with each branch here, it has been quite clear that these groups, just like mine, value friendship and support of our fellow women. We both care about our communities and strive to better them. We reach beyond our local groups and try to better the lives of women and children around the world...because if you better the lives of women and children, you better the whole country.

A year ago, Sara Kenny, former president of the CWA of WA spent three weeks in Illinois with various IAHCE units around the state. My county, Fulton County, hosted her for a mere 48 hours, but the impact of her spirit and her thirst for learning will be felt forever. If not for having met her, I would not have had this amazing experience. She coordinated my trip here and, I must say, she did a tremendous job! Each host family gave me a different viewpoint on Australian lifestyles, family life and even house styles. Each CWA branch has welcomed me with open arms and a few kisses.

What are my major impressions of Australia?

     Everyone tries to live a healthy, happy lifestyle.

     Australians love the outdoors and especially love their trees.

     Everyone has been to a lot more places than I have been. Vacations are very important and plentiful for Australians. Bali? Wow, you've been to Bali? A country that seems distant and exotic to me is just a short plane ride away here. So many people I talked to have traveled to the U.S. or have relatives who live there. Some have even visited Illinois.

     Australians love beaches and water. Water is scarce in some parts, so every drop of water is precious and is hoarded. Water surrounds Australia, so every child is taught to swim. The oceans lure Australia's inhabitants to their coasts. Tradition urges one and all to dip their feet into each ocean that surrounds the continent. (I have checked off the Indian Ocean and the Great Southern Ocean.)

     I have only experienced one corner of Western Australia, but have sweated in the heat in one part and have quickly donned my John Deere hoodie in other parts. My stereotype of Australia was that it was ALL Outback. What? They have TREES? What? They have GREEN?

     I am soon off to Melbourne and the remainder of my adventure. Never will I forget Western Australia and the people in it.
   

   


Dunsborough and the Margaret River Area

After this post, I may not have the internet for a few days. I will be traveling to Perth, and then to Melbourne. After a few days in Ballarat, I will be heading to the Associated Country Women of the World Triennial on April 5th. I do not know the availability of the internet in any of those places, so it may be a few days before you hear from me again. In addition, Google+ is going to start deleting some things starting April 2nd. It may or may not include this blog. Please jot down deontoaustralia.com as I am posting the same posts on it. In fact, it has two early ones that are not on this one. (Yes, yes, I know I am an expert at goofing up.)


My new hosts, Carol and Don, live near Dunsborough in the Margaret River region. There are many vineyards, art studios and tourist attractions. A nearby town, Cowaramup, is a real cow town. That is not an insult...they love it! Throughout the small town are statues of cows in various poses. It is a very moo-ving experience to see them all. 


Their cows are heads above other cows. I thought it was udderly astonishing. 

Oh, by the way, do you notice a lot of towns with the ending of "-up" in Australia? For a long time, people thought it meant "a place of water," but native speakers say it means "meeting place." 


In one of those small towns I saw green and yellow.

Illinois manufactures John Deere equipment. Yay for Illinois and John Deere!
I love seeing them all over the place in Australia. If any of my new Australian friends ever get to Moline, Illinois, please stop at the John Deere Pavilion to see antique and new JD equipment.
You can combine it with other sights, such as seeing the Mississippi River. It will not be a harrowing experience. (We'll see who gets those jokes.)


Carol took me to the Boranup Karri Forest. These three pictures do not adequately show the ethereal  feeling of the place or the humbling experience of these tall trees hovering over our heads. 


Carol standing next to one of the tall trees. All together now..."Wooooow!"




These are the Canal Rocks near the Margaret River. Note the color of the water.



There is a narrow walkway that takes you to the prime observation point.


Dunsborough's CWA of WA hosted a luncheon at Cave's House Hotel. (There are many caves in the area.) The original hotel was built in 1901, but burned in 1937. It was replaced by this building in 1938. In the 40's, many people honeymooned here, but today many people get married on the beautiful grounds...and then honeymoon there.

The CWA ladies were just delightful. What a great audience!


The hotel retained many of it original details, but many interesting pieces of furniture and fixtures have been added. I had never seen a light fixture like this!



The Jarrah trees produce a hard, beautiful wood as evidence by this amazing piece of furniture.



Meelup Beach has the most amazing turquoise water. We talked to a man who had just swam in the ocean. Apparently, it was a bit "brisk" out there!

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Enjoying My Trip


Have I convinced all of you to travel to Australia yet? If so, then one option for entertainment is the Bibbulmun Track. The walk runs 1000 km from Albany to Perth. Did I do the Bibbulmun Track? Well, I walked over to the sign to have my picture taken. Does that count?


This shows the size of some of the trees at the Valley of the Giants



Grandma Tingle.



These ladies from the Manjimup branch of the CWA of WA provided this tea. The CWA ladies around the state have been so warm and welcoming. I have been well-fed! Have I gained weight? No, I've actually lost weight because I've been walking so much.


Busselton has paid homage to its past by having many statues around the town. It was a whaling town.


Some of the wives of the whalers would travel with them and some waited patiently for them to come home. Was I looking out to sea? Or squinting in the sun?

So Many Lovely Places...So Many Lovely People...So Little Time to Tell You About Them...


I have been fascinated with these structures on top of people's houses. I recognized a lot of solar panels, but was baffled by these which I saw everywhere. At Belinda Lay's house, it was explained that this is a solar hot water heater and that the hot water rose and was stored in the tank above. Did I miss a day in science class? Hot water rises? Good thing I was an art teacher and not a science teacher!


Most families I stayed with collected rain water, which was often used for drinking, as well as for other uses.  I was surprised the pipe from the roof didn't go directly to the tank, but went underground first. Since the tank was lower than the roof, the water made it into the tank. Another science lesson!



Gaynor took me to the Tree Top Walk near Denmark, WA.
https://www.valleyofthegiants.com.au/
Okay, everyone, just put "Tree Top Walk, Valley of the Giants" on your Bucket List.


The early explorers found these extremely tall trees excellent for shipbuilding. Karris..Red Tingles...unfamiliar tree names to me.
Some of these trees have been here for 400 years.
This was a spectacular experience....

...great gift shop, too.




I have not posted many pictures of the local CWA of WA groups, but I have spoken at a lot of them. CWA of WA is a sister group of my own IAHCE. This one was in Manjimup, WA. These groups are filled with delightful, friendly women...and the meetings always comes with "tea" (meaning tea and scones and little sandwiches and little filled cookies and little cakes...).



Host Pat Twiss took me for a walk through the woods. The topography in south-west WA is quite different from the Geraldton or Kalgoorlie areas. It is quite densely populated with trees.



Streams as large as this were unusual in the northern area where I traveled earlier. In those areas, creeks were often dry until the winter rains came in May, June, July and August.



This tree was near the above stream. The yellow marks on the lower part of the tree mark the water level during periods of flooding. The yellow mark high up on the tree denotes the flood level in 1982. Yikes! 



Pat took me to a joint meeting of the local Nannup CWA of WA group and the local sewing group. Oh, the wonderful projects they were working on! They showed me quilts, felting, knitting and a multitude of other projects. Many things were made to donate to local charities. Then we had tea and little cakes and little sandwiches....


In the smaller towns, small churches such as this one are a common sight.



This "re-purpose" idea made me laugh!


In Busselton, the Dunsborough ladies took me to the Busselton Jetty. On the grounds, there was this fantastic pirate ship for children to play on.


This jetty was built far out into the sea so large ships could unload. It was destroyed in a storm. The local people have restored and improved it. 
https://www.busseltonjetty.com.au/


An underwater observatory has been developed to show the coral reef that has formed under the jetty. You can watch the fish and coral on live cam: 
https://www.busseltonjetty.com.au/underwater-observatory/live-webcams/
(Well, you can't watch it at the moment I am writing this because it is dark, but please give it a shot in the morning...well, when it is morning here!)


Whales painted to scale adorn the jetty. Whales are sometimes spotted swimming near the jetty. 



At Pat Twiss' house, a skink lives under the deck. What is a skink? A lizard who is shy. And timid. And who scares easily.
I saw the front half only after being really still for a long time. Later I came outside again and saw the back half of him showing. I v-e-r-y c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y tiptoed up to see if I could all of him. 

I saw all of him.

He saw all of me.

In a flash, all of his black scaly lizard body disappeared.

I about jumped out of my skin.

Ah, ha! Who is the shy, timid one who scares easily now???


Jarrah wood was highly coveted as being very strong. This floor in a local art gallery was made from this beautiful wood.


Tuesday, March 26, 2019

Random Memories

This post will be a series of random photographs and memories. I am leaving out a lot of lovely people and events because I won't have time to write about them. So far in this trip, I have stayed with 8 families, with one to go. I have met with about 10 CWA of WA groups to talk about the Illinois Association of Home and Community Education and to share ideas. I have also been taken on multiple tours of local sites by friends of my hosts. This has truly been an amazing trip!


The smaller communities are far apart and have a lower population. In small towns, I saw buildings like this, which house the local fire brigade and/or the local ambulance. Since fires in the farming areas can be started by lightning strikes or a spark from a machine, not only are the firefighting volunteers on alert, the farms and stations usually have filled water tanks at the ready. When the word goes out that there is a local fire, all hands rush to fight it. One fire in the Esperance region was so severe that several lives were lost as well as many buildings.


Local schools in these small communities might only have 50 students, preschool to Level 6. Students are thereafter sent to a regional middle and high school or sent to a private school in Perth. Often two or more levels are taught in the same room. I met a principal of one of these schools. Not only did he have the duties of his job, but taught classes also. There is a lot of community support for these schools and the level of education these students get is high.


This is Frenchman's Cap in the Cape La Grande National park. It is so named because it was thought the peak looks like...a Frenchman's Cap! At the peak there is a cave that can be explored...if you don't mind trekking up the ridge of the peak. That experience was offered to me, but since I have to stop and rest climbing a long flight of steps, I declined!


Remember the pair from an earlier post on the beach of Lucky Bay? Well, they needed a little rest after all of their publicity shots. These allowed people to pet them.



At Wharton Beach, I was able to dip my feet in the Great Southern Ocean. Brrrr! We came across people swimming in the ocean in various locations. They reported that it was quite bracing!


Wharton Beach. Isn't it beautiful?


Around Western Australia, communities are painting the grain silos.

That's all I have time to do this morning.


Monday, March 25, 2019

Wildlife


We saw this little guy from a distance and thought it was a mark on the road. Charlotte, my tour guide for the morning, pulled closer and found him basking in the sun. This picture was taken from a (safe) distance. I'd estimate he was over two feet long. Apparently, one type of lizard, unsure if this is the one, climbs tall trees if panicked. Ummmm, humans look like tall trees to them. So, if you see a panicked lizard heading in your direction you are supposed to crouch down or fall flat so you don't get a toenail in the eyeball or a new lizard hat!



So far, I have been in a car three different times when the driver had to brake quickly to avoid hitting kangaroos. Hitting kangaroos is quite a common occurrence. Many cars, like this one, come with a "roo bar." Some cars have them when they are new, but some people add them later.

Charlotte took me to Lucky Bay, one of many beaches she showed me. This one is famous for not only being gorgeous, it is famous because roos come out of the bush to sun themselves.


This pair entertained the crowd.



Cuttlefish found on the beach at Greens Pool (with Gaynor!)





Remember the emu warning signs? Well, I'd get excited each time I saw one and looked around to see if I could spot one. Charlotte spotted these but by the time I got my camera out, they'd spotted me and all I got was their backsides.



Oh, look! A wild Peppa Pig!

So very sorry....am days behind in my blogs...



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